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Watercolour of the Banaras ghats along the Ganga at morning

A Morning at Kamachha

Watercolour of the Banaras ghats at morning

The city is awake before the light is. Walk inland from the river, away from the postcards, and Banaras changes registers: less spectacle, more workshop. Our mornings begin in Kamachha, where the studio is a house before it is a shop — the white sheets of the baithak spread and smoothed, chai put on, the day's arrivals expected.

Why the silk is shown seated and low, what the white sheet actually does, the weaving households across the lanes — and how to visit, in person or one saree at a time on WhatsApp.

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